Day 23, Sat., June 12, 2010: Canada

Well, we’re back home again with all our luggage. We left the Casita de Cabreja, Cuenca, in good time yesterday (Friday)and found the Hotel Don Luis with no difficulty in spite of a bit of incorrect information from the Reception desk at the Casita who downloaded a Google map and printed it out for us. Fortunately our careful reading of street signs paid off when we discovered that Ave. General was reached directly from a roundabout instead of via Ave Logruño.

Returning the car was another matter. There were no signs at the airport in Madrid to direct us to the car rental agencies. Nor did some of the airport workers we approached know where to look. One worker told us it was behind the taxi stands at terminal 3, another in the parking area in Terminal 2. We finally found it in the public parking at terminal 1. We are very glad we chose to return the car on Friday instead of Saturday morning on the way to catch our flight. All this was completed before noon.

The subway system of Madrid has a line out to the airport, although there is a small surcharge for using the stations there. The terminals are also all interconnected so that we could go from Terminal 1 where we returned the car to Terminal 2 where the subway stop was located, on foot. Dick & I caught the subway to do some sight seeing, final shopping and get some lunch. There were 3 separate subway lines involved to get to the center of Madrid, all for about $2.50 Cdn. each. The receptionist at the Hotel Don Luis gave us a map of the subway system that made this easy in spite of the transfers.

We got to practice our Spanish some more on the way home, getting directions back to the hotel when we left the subway. Streets in Spain are a maze, often with 5 or 6 streets exiting from a roundabout, so we had to check 3 or 4 times on the way back.

Knowing that we had to be up really early to catch our 6:45am flight, we spent a quiet evening. Dick when down to the hotel bar for a glass of wine about 9:00, and received a plate of perhaps 20 green olives along with it. In Spain you always get a little food with your alcoholic beverage. By the way, wine in Spain costs about the same as water, and sometimes less than the pop offered in the restaurants and bars.

Travel to Toronto went smoothly. In spite of leaving Madrid about 15 minutes late we caught our flight without mishap, partly because the Jetairways India flight delayed boarding to let those from Madrid a little more time.

A word about Jetairways India - we recommend the line, especially the transatlantic fights. The seats are comfortable, the staff courteous, and the food delicious, especially for those who enjoy the food of India. Both coming and going we were served 2 meals, and provided all the water we needed for drinking - all we had to do was ask.

Day 21, June 10: La Casita de Cabreja

It cooled off a lot yesterday and started to rain rather persistently. Because this area is a bit mountainous, the streams and small rivers are filling up quickly.


We got a look at the wine cellar in the hotel this morning. This photo only shows 1 corner. There are several hundred bottles there with some liquor, cold cuts and cheese for wine tasting.

We drove into Cuenca today to do some final shopping before flying home Saturday. At least that was our plan. Didn’t quite work out that way. We also planned to visit 3 museums: the archeological museum, the science museum, and the artisans’ museum. These are all located in the old town of Cuenca (with the hanging houses) that we saw at the beginning of our tour.

The Archeological Museum concentrated on the discoveries of archeologists, with a lot information on the people of the Iberian Peninsula before the arrival of the Romans and the resulting conquest. The artifacts included a lot from the daily lives of the peoples. Non of what we had seen up to now showed any of this but was focused more of the fortresses and cathedrals of those who triumphed in the long run: the Spanish, of course.

The Science Museum was divided into 3 sections: the study of the development of the world and its living creatures as science sees it; development of technology now, and the development into the future beginning with space travel. Dick would have loved a couple more hours here.

Unfortunately for us, the artisan’s museum was closed. This was disappointing because are forms from the past up to modern times were included: marble, glass, carpets, weaving, pottery, sculptures, etc.

By the time we finished up in the Old Town and drove back downtown it was almost 3:00pm and the stores were all closed. We had lunch then dawdled around expecting the stores to re-open at 4:00. It seems that Cuenca is a little different from the rest of Spain. Nothing reopens until 5:00. Not wanting to wait around until then, we returned to Casita de Cabreja. We’ll do our shopping in Madrid tomorrow.


We have been eating more like Spaniards while here. About 2:30 pm the menu del dia which consists of two plates. Because of the differences in terms and our poor Spanish, we don't always get what we think we will. Yesterday the 'premero' (first dish), was a very good mixed salad. The 'secundo' turned out to be home fries and side pork.


I, Dick), ordered coffee after the meal and didn't specify what kind. This is what I got, (note the size), but was it ever strong, more of an espresso.

We’ve paid the hotel bill and let them know we plan leave 7:30 to 8 am. Antonio, son of the owner, said he would be in to give us breakfast. We hope to get the car back in time to save 1 days rental. We’ll take a taxi to the airport Sat.

a view of Casita de Cabreja

Day 17, June 6: Casita de Cabreja

This has been a very quiet day. Woke up at our usual time, had to wait until 9:00am for coffee and breakfast, then walked around the grounds for a while, took some pictures. There is a ping-pong table, bats and balls set up outside. I’ve lost some of my “skill”. In fact we both did, and spend a lot of time chasing the balls.


Dick checking out the vineyard at Casita de Cabreja

This afternoon we drove into Cuenca for lunch at the ‘El Togar” restaurant. We forgot that the servings are actually large enough for two people, so had no room left for dessert. We each had a paella, then I had a lamb dish and Dick had Iberian ham. The dinner included 1st and 2nd courses, dessert and a beverage, which included alcoholic beverages. Everything was delicious. We had a big lunch at 2 pm because the hotel would not be serving dinner this evening.

Especially for Bruce, a picture of the 'pre-dinner tapas' served at this meal. We're taking other photos of meals for you Bruce.

After dinner we did a little driving around to see if you could find a restaurant closer to the hotel. There is a service center on the highway between here and Cuenca that looks good, and we could avoid the city traffic.

We drove around the small town of Jábaga, which is even closer, but there were no stores at all there, not even on the main square. We discovered a recreation center under construction just outside the town, including a pool.

We were disappointed to discover that the pool here at the hotel has not yet been filled for the season. There seems to be only one other couple left at the hotel several couple checked out this morning - have to go to work in the morning.

Day 15, Friday June 4: Madrid

We set off this morning for an optional tour of Toledo, the former capital of Spain. This old walled city was made famous by the paintings of El Greco, and even now it’s like a great open-air museum of Spanish history and art. However, we were rather disappointed in the tour.

Toledo showing the Cathedral and Mosque on the left. The river boarders 3 sides of the city.

Within the walled city was an ancient mosque and ancient Jewish synagogue, but we were not taken into either of them. However we did spend a lot of time in the Cathedral of Toledo, listening to our guide giving a boring, detailed description of the many elaborated decorations around the interior. The design and artwork of these huge building are magnificent, but we have to think that man rather than God was glorified, since only the priests and wealthy were able to get close enough to see and understand the services. Toledo is one of the many towns in Spain that claim the honour of being the home town of Don Quixote and his sidekick Pancho Panza.


Don Quixote and his sidekick Pancho Panza

Since there is no group dinner plan for this evening, we opted for a Spanish lunch, which is the main meal of the day. This way, we can have a smaller meal this evening and be able to settle down better for the night.

After lunch, we participated in a sight seeing tour of Madrid. There are a lot of beautiful buildings in this city, some dating back to the Moorish occupation. Madrid is situated 2,180 feet above sea level, the nearest thing to heaven the Spaniards say.

This is the last day of sightseeing on the tour. Most of the people will be going home tomorrow. We will be renting a car and heading for ‘La Casita de Cabreja’ at Jabaga, (near Cuenca). We will be there until next Fri. when we return to Madrid to head home 12 June. I, (Dick), must admit that after seeing Madrid’s traffic, I am a little concerned, especially about the traffic lights.



Day 16, Saturday June 6: Casita de Cabrejas

Well, we got out of Madrid with only a couple small alterations in our original plan. When we went to the reception desk of the Hotel Praga, the gentleman there looked at us as if we were slightly mad to plan to walk to Hertz car rental. We could if we really wanted too, of course, but it would take us a least half an hour, and to park the car while we colleted the luggage and checked out would cost us the 14∉ (Euros), the cost for a full day. We decided to use a taxi, and take the luggage with us. The taxi cost 4.70∉.

Madrid streets, like so much of Spain, do not run in straight lines. Many are also not marked at every intersection. Fortunately the Hertz agency was located very close to the major artery called the “anillo”, the ring road. This circles the entire city, with clearly marked exits. Unfortunately for us, the connection to the southbound lanes, which we wanted, was not marked. We ended up in the northbound, so instead of only driving past a couple of exits, we ended up going almost all the way around the city of Madrid.

We did not have specific directions to this guest house, only those to the nearby village of Jábaga. When we asked directions to la casita, one of the gentlemen said it would be better if we just followed him since he was going in the same directions. That worked very well. Later this week we’ll go into the village to take some pictures.


Windmills -old and new, On the way to Cuenca, an old stone based windmill with modern wind powered generators in the background.

We are now settled in. Lunch is not served, not is dinner Sunday evenings, so we are going to need to go into Chance, 12km away, everyday for lunch. We may look at options for this.

This is a very classy guest house. There are lots of places to sit in the shade outside and comfortable seating inside. There are two dining room. This evening a group of four guests and another group with small children were seated in one quite modern dining room while the couples were seated in a more intimately decorated room where it would be quieter. The meals were well prepared and well presented. I (Eva) am going to enjoy this. Mealtimes are typically Spanish: breakfast from 9:00am to 10:30, Dinner between 9:00pm and 10:00pm This feels strange to us, and leaves me feeling a little at loose ends between 6 and 9 pm. Mid day to a Spaniard is around 2:00pm.

The outside of the Mezquit

Day 14, Thursday, June 3, Codoba and Madrid

Before leaving Cordoba we visited Mezquit, one of Islam’s most important pieces of architecture outside the Arab world.

Inside the Mezquit

When the Christians re-conquered the area in 1236, they made it into a Cathedral. The inside of the building is magnificent. A forest of columns support the vast roof and the main alter is in the center, as is common with the great cathedrals, with small chapels around the side.

Tower just outside the Mezquit

Leaving about 11:30 we drove for 1 ½ hours before our lunch break at a very modern service center, then on to Madrid and the hotel Praga, our base till the end of the tour Tomorrow.

Dick and out tour guide Vitor in the main plaza of Madrid on the way to a 'tapas' dinner

Pool at the Alhambra

Day 13, Wednesday, June 2: Granada (cont.), Cordoba

Visit to the Alhambra
We arrived too late last night to do the complete sight seeing of Granada, so before we left the city, Vitor arranged a guided tour of one of the major political centres of the Medieval world this morning - the Alhambra.

Fountains at the Alhambra

Granada was the Arabs’ most treasured city. They still morn its loss in their prayers. We had local guides for this. The Alhambra itself was a major fortress, built by the Moors, surrendered to Ferdinand and Isabella in January of 1492. Yes, before Columbus sailed the Atlantic. The King and Queen lived in the Alhambra of Granada for a few years, and it was here that they met Christopher Colombus. During the hot summer months, the court spent a lot of time in the “Generalife” , no, this is not an insurance company. Somewhere in the beautiful book we bought about the Alhambra we will find the explanation of the term. The days were spent in the cooler structure, but at night Isabella insisted on returning to the fortress because it was better defended. This was a subtle reminder that life was dangerous in those times.

The water system is very efficient. The system used by the Alhambra today is still gravity fed from the mountains through aqueducts of various types. Even the pools and fountains are part of the system as the edifice continues down the mountain.

Trivia: the pomegranate fruit is native to Granada.

Cordoba - After arriving at the ‘Hotel Don Juan’ we headed for the Alcázar. Wednesday there is not charge. This is a palace of the Christian Monarchs, (view http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alc%C3%A1zar_de_los_Reyes_Cristianos ).
We had a little difficulty finding our way to the entrance and wound up walking around a large part of the outside until we met a British couple going the other way looking for the entrance. We retraced our steps plus a little and finally got there. It is very large with beautiful gardens. Unfortunately there is no furniture or explanations in English. We didn’t climb the tower as Dick’s foot was hurting a lot. The gardens were, as usual, lovely. Heading back to the hotel we again passed beside the old defensive wall (they're hugh!), then the old Synagogue in the Jewish quarter,(it was closed) and back to the hotel for dinner at 8 pm. I (Eva) was going to wear a new navy summer dress for dinner for which I purchased a lovely scarf, but I seemed to have left it behind.

We are amazed at the olive trees. In this part of the country they cover the land as far as you can see. Spain is the major producer of olive oil in the world.

Olive trees on the way to Cordoba

Day 11, Monday, May 31: Seville.

Today was one that was left unplanned by the tour company. We went on the optional tour, a drive through part of the city, then walking through the Spanish Pavilion,the Royal gardens and the Cathedral of Sevilla.

The Spanish Pavilion at the 1929 World Fair in Seville

All this took over 3 hours. I had hoped to see the álcazar, but we both had very sore legs, a condition that started a couple of days ago, and so decided to pass on it. The King of Spain and his family still use it as a winter residence becasue it is so much warmer than Madrid. We walked back to the hotel rather than taking the bus. Walking at a natural pace is much less tiring than the pokey pace of a guided tour.

On the way back we stopped for lunch at a restaurant with outdoor tables.

This afternoon, after a sleep, Dick & I went up to enjoy time at the rooftop saltwater pool.
Internet at the hotel was down so this will be posted in Granada.

Day 12, Tuesday, June 1: Jerez, Ronda, Granada


Jerez We were en route from Sevilla by 8:15. Our first stop was in Jerez, where we were given a guided tour of wine cellars of Tio Pepe & Stock.
Tio Pepe, the symbol of the Winery

The winemakers follow a practice of partially emptying a cask that has matured sufficiently, leaving it 1/3 full, then refilling it from the cask next to it, etc., until the last cask is ready to be topped up with new wine. The process takes several years. Important visitors get to autograph a barrel. No, we weren’t important enough.

At the end of the tour we were invited to taste their sherries, and, of course, spend money in the always present gift shop.

Ronda The people of the town of Ronda were the originators of bullfighting back in the 14th century. This ring was open to the public and includes a museum of bull fighting and other weapons of defense and aggression through the centuries.

Dick in the bull ring at Ronda

One of the members of the tour got lost on the way back to the bus. When she was asking directions back to the bus, she was told to turn left, instead of right. We were a bit late getting on the road again.

We’re in Granada now. We have all done some independent exploring and are looking forward to the tour of the Alhambra tomorrow before we move on to Cordoba. Dinner was at 8 pm, a little early, and it was very good. This was the first time we had to pay extra for the water on the table.